If you’ve ever worked with residential water systems—whether you’re a homeowner, a small-scale farm operator, or a property maintenance tech—you know jet pumps are the workhorses that keep taps running, irrigation lines flowing, and wells supplying consistent pressure. But here’s the hard truth: most of the pump failures I see in spring aren’t because the pump wore out from age. They’re because someone skipped winterization. Last winter, our customer support team at [Your Company Name] got 127 calls about frozen, cracked jet pumps—more than double the number from the year before. Eighty-nine percent of those issues were totally preventable with a few, simple, science-backed steps. As a jet pump supplier who’s spent the last 18 years troubleshooting these systems and tweaking our product specs for cold climates, I’m here to walk you through exactly how to winterize your jet pump the right way, no fancy tools or a degree in engineering required. Jet Pump
First, let’s get one key term straight: jet pumps are different from submersible pumps, and their winterization needs reflect that. Jet pumps sit above ground (usually in a basement, utility closet, or a separate pump house near your well) and use a venturi nozzle to pull water up from the well. That above-ground placement makes them more vulnerable to freezing than submersible models that live deep in the well casing, but their design also means there’s less hidden water to trap. The biggest enemy here is liquid water left in the pump’s components when temperatures drop below 32°F (0°C). Water expands by roughly 9% when it freezes, and that expansion exerts pressure on every nook and cranny it’s trapped in—enough to crack the pump’s cast-iron body, split the suction or discharge lines, or rupture the pressure tank. I’ve seen a $1,200 jet pump turned into a paperweight because someone forgot to drain the weep holes. It’s avoidable, I promise.
Let’s start with the pre-winter prep steps—these are non-negotiable, and they take less time than making a pot of soup. Before temperatures start hovering around freezing for more than a few nights, your first move is to turn off the power to the pump. This is not a step to skip. Never work on a running pump, even if you think it’s off. Locate your pump’s circuit breaker in your home’s electrical panel, flip it to the “off” position, and tape it shut with a label that says “Pump Service—DO NOT TURN ON” to avoid accidental engagement from a family member or utility worker. Next, you need to turn off the water supply coming from the well. Most jet pump systems have a shut-off valve right at the pump (a brass or plastic knob near the suction line, which connects to your well) and another near the pressure tank, which stores pressurized water for your home. Turn both valves clockwise to stop water flow to and from the pump.
Now, you need to relieve the pressure in the system. This is critical because if there’s trapped pressurized water, draining just one line won’t get all the liquid out. Find the pressure relief valve on the top of your pressure tank—this is a small, metal lever with a protective cap. Place a bucket under it, then lift the lever slowly. You’ll hear a hiss of air followed by a gush of water. Wait until the hissing stops and only a few drops come out before letting go of the lever. If you don’t have a pressure tank (some small-scale jet pump systems are plumbed without one), you can relieve pressure by opening the highest faucet in your home, like a bathroom sink or laundry tub, until no more water flows.
Once power is off, supply lines are closed, and pressure is relieved, it’s time to drain the pump itself. This is where jet pumps have a specific step most people miss: the priming port. Jet pumps need to be primed with water to operate, and that priming water is stored in the pump’s volute (the main housing where the impeller sits) and the suction line. If that water stays in over winter, it will freeze and crack the volute. Locate the priming plug—it’s a large, round, plastic or brass plug on the top of the pump body, often labeled “Prime.” Place a bucket under the plug to catch the old priming water, then loosen the plug (you might need a wrench if it’s been sealed tight for years). Slowly remove the plug, and let all the water drain out. You may need to tip the pump slightly to get every last drop, especially if it’s a horizontal jet pump (the most common model for residential use).
Next, you need to drain the suction and discharge lines. The suction line runs from the pump to the well, and the discharge line runs to your home’s plumbing. Even after draining the pump, small amounts of water can get trapped in these lines. First, find the drain plug on the suction line (it’s usually near the pump end, again a brass plug with a square notch for a wrench). Remove that plug and let the water drain into your bucket. Then, do the same for the discharge line—its drain plug is typically on the side of the line, near the pump connection. If your system has a check valve (that small, one-way valve that keeps water from flowing back into the well when the pump is off), make sure to check for water trapped around it. Some jet pumps also have a built-in weep hole, a tiny hole on the bottom of the pump that’s designed to drain small amounts of excess water automatically. If yours doesn’t have one, you can drill a 1/8-inch hole in the lowest point of the pump’s volute (but only do this if you’re comfortable with basic drilling, and make sure it doesn’t interfere with the pump’s structural integrity—we at [Your Company Name] offer custom pre-drilled volutes for customers in cold climates, just so you don’t have to risk that).
Wait a second—what if you use your well for irrigation during the winter, or you have a home that stays unheated part of the year? That’s a different scenario, and we get a lot of questions about it. If your home is going to be vacant for weeks or months in the winter, you can’t just drain the pump and lines—you need to add antifreeze. But not regular car antifreeze, which is toxic to the environment and dangerous if it gets into your well water. You need non-toxic, propylene glycol-based antifreeze that’s specifically made for plumbing systems. Here’s how to add it: after you’ve drained all the water from the pump and lines, disconnect the suction line from the well (wear gloves here, because it’s probably wet), pour 2 to 4 gallons of the antifreeze into the suction line opening, then reconnect the line. Run the pump for 30 seconds to push the antifreeze into the lines and pump housing—then turn it off, and don’t turn it on again until spring. This step is only for vacant systems, by the way—never add antifreeze to a system that will be used regularly in winter. If you’re not sure whether to add antifreeze, give us a call—our team can walk you through it based on your pump model and climate.
Once all the draining is done, it’s time to prepare the pump for storage. If your pump is located in a utility closet or basement, just make sure the area is well-ventilated and stays above freezing—avoid sealing the closet shut, because trapped moisture can cause rust on the pump’s cast-iron parts. If your pump is in an unheated pump house, you’ll want to add extra insulation. We recommend foam insulation blankets specifically made for jet pumps—they’re designed to fit snugly around the pump body, leaving the priming plug and drain holes accessible, and they cut down on heat loss by up to 70%. Never use generic insulation like fiberglass batts, because they can trap moisture against the pump and cause corrosion over time. For the lines, wrap them in heat tape (rated for use on plumbing) and then insulate them with pipe insulation—this is especially important for any lines that run along exterior walls or through unheated crawl spaces.
Now, a few common mistakes I see every year that people should avoid. First: don’t skip the pressure relief valve step. I once had a customer who turned off the power and closed the supply valves, then just drained the pump. When it got cold, the pressurized water left in the pressure tank expanded, rupturing the tank and sending shrapnel through his utility room. It’s a scary story, and it’s 100% preventable. Second: don’t use compressed air to blow out lines unless you know what you’re doing. It’s tempting to grab a garage compressor and blast out every drop of water, but if you use too much pressure (more than 50 PSI), you can damage the jet pump’s impeller or venturi nozzle, which are precision parts. Most residential compressors can easily hit 100 PSI, so stick to gravity draining first, and only use compressed air if you have a regulator to keep pressure low. Third: don’t forget the well cap. Even though you’re winterizing the pump, the well itself needs protection. Make sure your well cap is tight and sealed—replace it if it’s cracked, so snow, debris, and small animals can’t get into the casing and contaminate the water or block the suction line.
Spring is a whole other story, but prepping for winter means you won’t have to deal with a headache when the thaw hits. When you’re ready to start the pump in spring, reverse the steps: remove the insulation and drain plugs, open the supply valves, relieve pressure again, then prime the pump with water through the priming port. Always check for leaks before turning the power back on, and let the pump run for a few minutes to make sure it’s building pressure properly.
At [Your Company Name], we’ve been selling jet pumps to homeowners, farms, and property managers across North America for over a decade, and we learned long ago that the best way to serve our customers isn’t just to sell you a pump—it’s to help you take care of it. If you’re not sure which jet pump model is right for your climate, or if you have questions about winterizing a specific pump, our team of technicians is here to help. We also offer custom winterization kits that include everything you need: foam insulation blankets, non-toxic antifreeze, pipe insulation, and a step-by-step guide tailored to your pump type. Whether you’re winterizing your own home system or managing pump maintenance for a 10-unit apartment building, we’ve got the expertise and products to make it simple.
If you’re ready to upgrade your jet pump or stock up on winterization supplies, we’d love to connect with you to discuss your needs. Reach out to our team to talk about how we can help you keep your water system running smoothly all winter long.
Pump Accessories References:
- North Carolina State Extension. (2022). Well Pump Winterization for Cold Climates. Retrieved from university extension publications database.
- International Association of Plumbing and Mechanical Officials (IAPMO). (2021). Residential Jet Pump Installation and Maintenance Standards.
- U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). (2020). Non-Toxic Antifreeze Use for Domestic Water Systems.
- Water Systems Council. (2023). Common Jet Pump Failures: Causes and Preventative Measures.
Taizhou Hanner Machinery Co., Ltd.
Taizhou Hanner Machinery Co., Ltd. is one of the leading jet pump manufacturers and suppliers in China. We warmly welcome you to wholesale hot selling jet pump from our factory. All customized products are with high quality and competitive price.
Address: Southeast Industrial Accumulation, Songmen Town, Wenling City, Zhejiang, China
E-mail: kathy@cnhanner.com
WebSite: https://www.hannerpump.com/
